Layers
Caring for Egg Layer Chicks
SHIPPING AND FIRST DAY INSTRUCTIONS:
PREPARING FOR YOUR ORDER
Egg layer chicks require slightly different care than broiler chicks. It’s important to understand their differing care and nutritional requirements in order to raise healthy, productive birds.
Brooder for Chicks
House baby egg layers in a draft-free and predator-proof space indoors. A dedicated stall in a barn or shed would be suitable. If reusing an old brooder, be sure to clean and disinfect it thoroughly before your new birds arrive.
Set up your chick brooder and heat lamp at least 24 hours before your chicks arrive. After traveling through the mail, they’ll need to settle in quickly.
Use a brooder that allows your birds to grow into it. Start with at least .5 sq feet per bird and expand to 1-1.5 sq feet as they grow over the next few weeks.
A suitable brooder for chicks would be a large metal stock tank or wooden box. Ideally, a brooder box for chicks should have rounded corners. If your chick brooder has corners, use carboard or a brooder ring to prevent piling and suffocation.
Bedding
We recommend pine shavings, as they are highly absorbent and provide good traction. Spread 2-4 inches of pine shavings on the floor of the brooder in an even layer.
Before laying down your bedding, inspect it thoroughly to ensure they are not damp or moldy. We purchase pine shavings in paper bags, as they are less likely to harbor moisture.
Here are some common bedding options to avoid:
Newspaper. It is too slippery and not absorbent. Using this can cause splay leg in your chicks.
Treated woods. They are toxic to birds and contain harmful chemicals.
Sawdust. It is too dusty and can cause respiratory issues.
Heating Requirements
Depending on their development and your local climate conditions, your layers will need supplemental heat until about 6 weeks of age.
We recommend using a heat lamp rather than brooder plates. Brooder plates do not provide consistent, ambient heat, and they do not allow your poultry to remain warm while eating and drinking.
Your chick brooder heater should be securely fastened with two methods, such as a chain and a clamp. Do not hang your heat lamp by the wire, as this is a fire hazard.
Hang your heat lamp about 18 inches from the floor of the brooder. Use a thermometer placed on the floor to get an accurate read on the temperature. It should be 90-95 degrees at chick level. One heat lamp should be enough to warm about 50-100 chicks.
Drop the temperature by 5 degrees Fahrenheit each week:
0–1 week 90–95°F
1–2 weeks 85–90°F
2–3 weeks 80–85°F
3–4 weeks 75–80°F
4–5 weeks 70–75°F
5–6 weeks If outdoor temperatures are above 65 degrees, you can start weaning from the heat lamp.
In general, caring for baby chicks is relatively straightforward. Happy birds will be eating, drinking, and spread evenly throughout the brooder. If they are cold, your flock will be huddled tightly together under the lamp. If they are too hot, they will be spread out into the corners far away from the lamp.
Use their behavior as a guide on whether you need to raise or lower your heat lamp.
Water
Provide a 1-gallon waterer for every 25 birds. Room temperature water should be available for your birds at all times. After about a week in the brooder, you can raise up the waterer on a wood block so they can reach comfortably. This also prevents shavings and droppings from contaminating the water source.
Safety Tip: Consider adding clean marbles or rocks to the waterer to prevent accidental drowning if baby chicks do fall in.
Layer Feed
For best results, look for a chick starter feed that has between 18-20% protein. As your chicks grow, you can raise up the feeder on wood blocks to ensure they can reach their food source comfortably.
If your layer chicks are unvaccinated, we recommend starting them on a medicated chick feed to prevent coccidiosis. Coccidiosis in baby chicks is deadly and can spread to the rest of your flock quickly.
Common symptoms of coccidiosis in chickens includes diarrhea, lethargy, and lack of appetite. Isolate infected birds and treat your entire flock if you suspect coccidiosis. It can be treated if caught early. Consult a local poultry veterinarian if you need a treatment plan.
When to Switch Chicks to Layer Feed
When to start layer feed is highly dependent on the growth and development of your birds, as well as the type of feed you are using. It's best to switch your birds to layer feed right before they are about to start laying. Starting your chicks on layer feed too early can increase their calcium intake to unsafe levels and cause health issues.
Generally, chicks should be on starter feed for the first 6 to 8 weeks. You can switch them to a grower feed around 8-20 weeks, and then phase them gradually into a layer feed when they are close to reaching laying maturity. This is just a general guideline, as it could be sooner or later than what is listed here.
Be observant of your birds and look for signals that they are ready to switch feeds. Signs that your birds are ready for layer feed include redder combs and wattles, as well as them displaying nesting behaviors (crouching and spending time in their nesting boxes).
When to make the switch is all dependent on the breed you have and how they are maturing. It is also dependent on the kind of feed you are using. Generally, the back of the bag will give you a guideline on when to switch feeds. You can ask your local feed dealer for recommendations.
- Hatching and shipping times: Baby egg layer chicks are hatched between Monday and Wednesday. Depending on the day your chicks hatched, they typically arrive between Wednesday and Friday.
- Tracking: If you receive a tracking number with your order, keep in mind that USPS does not update their online tracking for live poultry. Once the shipping label is created, USPS automatically generates an estimated day and time for arrival, which is not always accurate. Rest assured that live shipments are given priority and pushed through the system more quickly than other packages.
- Arrival: The post office will contact you as soon as your birds arrive. Double check to ensure that your contact information is up-to-date. We recommend letting your post office know ahead of time that you are expecting live birds in the mail.
- Hydration: Aside from keeping them warm, the most important thing after picking up your egg layer chicks is to get them hydrated. When placing your chicks into the brooder, gently dip each bird’s break into their water source so they know where to drink. StresEEZ is a great supplement to add to their water source to provide additional electrolytes and vitamins after transit.
- Observation: Watch your birds for the first few hours to ensure they are adjusting well. Look for signs that the temperature, feeder, and waterer setup are appropriate. If they are eating, drinking, and evenly spaced throughout the brooder, then your temperature conditions are spot on.
PREPARING FOR YOUR ORDER
Egg layer chicks require slightly different care than broiler chicks. It’s important to understand their differing care and nutritional requirements in order to raise healthy, productive birds.
How to Properly Care for Layer Chicks
- Layer chicks do not require as much protein in their diet as broilers. They also do not require as much planning and maintenance when it comes to feed. Layers will stop eating when they are full.
- For best results, feed your baby chicks a starter feed specifically formulated for layer chicks. Their feed has different protein requirements than broilers. We recommend brooding layers and broilers separately for this reason.
- As they get older, your layers will require at least 3-4% calcium in their feed to produce strong, healthy eggs when they reach laying maturity. Switch to a layer feed shortly before they are due to start laying.
- Egg layer chicks have a slower growth rate than broilers and take longer to become fully feathered. Typically, they can move outside around the age of 6-8 weeks depending on the climate conditions and their development. Broiler chicks can be moved outside as soon as 3-4 weeks.
Brooder for Chicks
House baby egg layers in a draft-free and predator-proof space indoors. A dedicated stall in a barn or shed would be suitable. If reusing an old brooder, be sure to clean and disinfect it thoroughly before your new birds arrive.
Set up your chick brooder and heat lamp at least 24 hours before your chicks arrive. After traveling through the mail, they’ll need to settle in quickly.
Use a brooder that allows your birds to grow into it. Start with at least .5 sq feet per bird and expand to 1-1.5 sq feet as they grow over the next few weeks.
A suitable brooder for chicks would be a large metal stock tank or wooden box. Ideally, a brooder box for chicks should have rounded corners. If your chick brooder has corners, use carboard or a brooder ring to prevent piling and suffocation.
Bedding
We recommend pine shavings, as they are highly absorbent and provide good traction. Spread 2-4 inches of pine shavings on the floor of the brooder in an even layer.
Before laying down your bedding, inspect it thoroughly to ensure they are not damp or moldy. We purchase pine shavings in paper bags, as they are less likely to harbor moisture.
Here are some common bedding options to avoid:
Newspaper. It is too slippery and not absorbent. Using this can cause splay leg in your chicks.
Treated woods. They are toxic to birds and contain harmful chemicals.
Sawdust. It is too dusty and can cause respiratory issues.
Heating Requirements
Depending on their development and your local climate conditions, your layers will need supplemental heat until about 6 weeks of age.
We recommend using a heat lamp rather than brooder plates. Brooder plates do not provide consistent, ambient heat, and they do not allow your poultry to remain warm while eating and drinking.
Your chick brooder heater should be securely fastened with two methods, such as a chain and a clamp. Do not hang your heat lamp by the wire, as this is a fire hazard.
Hang your heat lamp about 18 inches from the floor of the brooder. Use a thermometer placed on the floor to get an accurate read on the temperature. It should be 90-95 degrees at chick level. One heat lamp should be enough to warm about 50-100 chicks.
Drop the temperature by 5 degrees Fahrenheit each week:
0–1 week 90–95°F
1–2 weeks 85–90°F
2–3 weeks 80–85°F
3–4 weeks 75–80°F
4–5 weeks 70–75°F
5–6 weeks If outdoor temperatures are above 65 degrees, you can start weaning from the heat lamp.
In general, caring for baby chicks is relatively straightforward. Happy birds will be eating, drinking, and spread evenly throughout the brooder. If they are cold, your flock will be huddled tightly together under the lamp. If they are too hot, they will be spread out into the corners far away from the lamp.
Use their behavior as a guide on whether you need to raise or lower your heat lamp.
Water
Provide a 1-gallon waterer for every 25 birds. Room temperature water should be available for your birds at all times. After about a week in the brooder, you can raise up the waterer on a wood block so they can reach comfortably. This also prevents shavings and droppings from contaminating the water source.
Safety Tip: Consider adding clean marbles or rocks to the waterer to prevent accidental drowning if baby chicks do fall in.
Layer Feed
For best results, look for a chick starter feed that has between 18-20% protein. As your chicks grow, you can raise up the feeder on wood blocks to ensure they can reach their food source comfortably.
If your layer chicks are unvaccinated, we recommend starting them on a medicated chick feed to prevent coccidiosis. Coccidiosis in baby chicks is deadly and can spread to the rest of your flock quickly.
Common symptoms of coccidiosis in chickens includes diarrhea, lethargy, and lack of appetite. Isolate infected birds and treat your entire flock if you suspect coccidiosis. It can be treated if caught early. Consult a local poultry veterinarian if you need a treatment plan.
When to Switch Chicks to Layer Feed
When to start layer feed is highly dependent on the growth and development of your birds, as well as the type of feed you are using. It's best to switch your birds to layer feed right before they are about to start laying. Starting your chicks on layer feed too early can increase their calcium intake to unsafe levels and cause health issues.
Generally, chicks should be on starter feed for the first 6 to 8 weeks. You can switch them to a grower feed around 8-20 weeks, and then phase them gradually into a layer feed when they are close to reaching laying maturity. This is just a general guideline, as it could be sooner or later than what is listed here.
Be observant of your birds and look for signals that they are ready to switch feeds. Signs that your birds are ready for layer feed include redder combs and wattles, as well as them displaying nesting behaviors (crouching and spending time in their nesting boxes).
When to make the switch is all dependent on the breed you have and how they are maturing. It is also dependent on the kind of feed you are using. Generally, the back of the bag will give you a guideline on when to switch feeds. You can ask your local feed dealer for recommendations.
Safe Handling of Poultry
When receiving your poultry please be aware, it is important to care for your poultry, but you must also protect yourself from potentially harmful micro-organisms, germs (including salmonella) and bacteria by direct contact with poultry and livestock.
Helpful Reminders:
Helpful Reminders:
- Baby poultry have the potential to carry germs (including Salmonella) that make humans very sick, especially the young or elderly. Always wash your hands after handling your birds, and do not nuzzle, kiss, or snuggle your poultry.
- Always supervise your children with poultry, and make sure hands are thoroughly washed after contact. Hand sanitizer is suitable if hot water and soap are not available.
- Do not house poultry inside your home. It’s advisable to keep very young children or seniors with compromised immune systems away from poultry altogether.
- Even baby poultry that appears perfectly happy and healthy can carry Salmonella. Salmonella in most cases is mild, but it can be severe or even life threatening in certain cases.